Christmas in Paris: markets, lights and where to stay
Christmas markets, festive lights and department store windows: what to see in Paris in December, and which neighborhood to stay in so you don't spend your evening on the metro.
In December, Paris changes pace: shop windows come to life, the streets light up from mid-November, and wooden chalets pop up in the gardens. It is also one of the times of year when Parisian hotels fill up fastest. Here is where to go, when, and which neighborhood will let you make the most of it.
The Christmas markets to know
The Tuileries — the biggest. Set in the garden linking the Louvre to Place de la Concorde, La Magie de Noël market features around a hundred craft chalets, an ice rink, a Ferris wheel and a full-blown funfair. It traditionally opens in mid-November and closes in early January. It is the most family-friendly and by far the busiest: come on a weekday or early in the afternoon if you want room to move.
Notre-Dame — the most intimate. Square René Viviani, Quai Montebello in the 5th arrondissement, opposite the cathedral. Smaller, more artisanal and much calmer than the Tuileries. It usually runs from late November to late December, so it closes earlier than the others.
The Champs-Élysées — a much-anticipated return. After almost ten years' absence, a Christmas market is due to return to the lower end of the avenue for winter 2026-2027. The arrangements were still being finalized at the time of writing: check before making a special trip.
Other, more low-key markets set up every year in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montmartre and the Marais. Our receptions have the up-to-date list.
The lights: mid-November to early January
This may be the best part of the season, and it is free. The Champs-Élysées, Place Vendôme and more than one hundred and fifty Parisian streets light up from mid-November and stay lit until early January. The switching-on of the avenue's lights is marked by an opening evening, with the avenue pedestrianized for the occasion.
As for shop windows, the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps Haussmann remain the two must-sees — their displays can be admired from the pavement, without going in or queuing. La Samaritaine, the BHV Marais and Le Bon Marché complete the tour.
Which hotel to stay in
For the Tuileries and the department stores, the central Right Bank is ideal. Our hotel near the Louvre Museum puts you a few minutes from the garden, and our hotel near the Marais within easy reach of La Samaritaine, the BHV and Les Halles.
For the windows on Boulevard Haussmann, nothing beats the 9th arrondissement: the Hôtel Léman Opéra is a ten-minute walk from the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, and our hotel on the Grands Boulevards is right next door.
For the Notre-Dame market, our hotel in the Latin Quarter, on Rue Saint-Jacques, is a few hundred meters from Square René Viviani. It is a five-minute walk down, which makes all the difference in cold weather.
For the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe, our hotel in western Paris is the closest, in the 17th arrondissement.
For a village feel under the snow, our hotel near the Sacré-Cœur: the Butte in December, with its illuminated lanes and views over the city, is a special moment.
Three seasonal tips
Book early. Parisian hotels fill up from October for December weekends, and New Year's Eve goes even faster. Unlike other seasons, waiting until the last minute is costly in December.
Plan for short days. It gets dark around 5 PM. The best plan is to keep museums for the afternoon and the lights for the end of the day — not the other way round.
Plan ahead for closures. Many restaurants close on 24 and 25 December, or offer a set menu that must be booked in advance. Our restaurant recommendations around our hotels will give you a starting point, but check opening times for those two evenings specifically.
Coming as a family or a group
December is the season for get-togethers, and therefore for multiple bookings. For more than three rooms, our dedicated service puts together a single proposal, possibly spread across two of our nearby hotels: everything is explained in our article on booking several rooms in Paris.
And if you are still unsure about the area, our guide which neighborhood to stay in Paris reviews the eight arrondissements where we are located. Discover our 3-star hotels in Paris and book direct to enjoy the best rate.
